Hair is made up of many different molecules, including essential fatty acids and amino acids. When hair is exposed to damage (such as blow drying or coloring), some of the molecules get destroyed and the hair shaft suffers from huge gaps in the structure.
No need to worry because this can all be fixed! Protein treatments will help to fill in the needs of amino acids and a rich moisture treatment will fill in the essential fatty acids gap.
WHAT DOES YOUR HAIR NEED?
Here is a simple test that anyone can use to determine if their hair needs protein, moisture, or both.
Step 1: WET YOUR HAIR
This works best after you have shampooed your hair. While it is still wet, you need to grip an inch of hair between your fingers.
STEP 2: STRETCH THE WET STRANDS OF YOUR HAIR
Take the inch of wet hair and run a comb through it. Make sure that it is not tangled when you do this - you don't want to harm your hair. REMEMBER, It is always best to use a wide-tooth comb for ethnic hair.
STEP 3: PAY ATTENTION
Pay very close attention to the way that your hair strands react after they have been combed. Healthy ethnic hair strands will stretch, but they will not break unless they are under an extreme amount of stress. Again, what you are looking for in this step is to see how your hair reacts to the wet stretch.
STEP 4: DIAGNOSE
If your hair stretches just a little, then returns to its normal length without breakage, then your hair is balanced. That's it...you are done!!
However............
1. It does not stretch at all, then breaks
2. If it is extremely dry, rough or brittle
Your hair needs Protein if:
1. It is limp and gummy feeling/looking
2. Stretches a long way then proceeds to break off
STEP 5: TREAT YOUR HAIR
Ok... so now that you have determined the problem with your hair, you need to fix it right away! Majority of the time, a lack of moisture is the main concern regarding ethnic hair, however a lack of sufficient protein can cause a great issue as well. No need to panic, here are some great tips on how you can solve both problems:
Lack of Moisture: Black hair needs a great deal of moisture because it is porous (which means that it sucks up moisture just like a sponge; but our hair also has a hard time storing and retaining moisture too). The number 1 mission is to find hair products that promote the absorption of moisture. Most products containing moisture carry some kind of humectant. A humectant is a substance that attracts moisture, such as glycerin, honey, or propylene glycol.
Now for all of you sisters who can't go a day without greasing your hair and scalp, you should be aware that most hair greases contain mineral oil or a petroleum base, both of which coat your hair shaft and does not allow it to take in moisture. This will eventually lead to severe dryness and breakage.
Also keep in mind that OIL IS NOT MOISTURE! Many people make this common mistake by using an oil such as olive or jojoba oil to moisturize their hair. Oil can seal the moisture in your hair strands, but it can not provide it. This is why most females apply a moisture based product to their hair first and then they apply the oil last to help seal and lock in the moisture.
Lack of Protein: Hair is made up of keratin, a kind of protein. When hair is damaged by heat or chemical services, it looses its protein, which means that it has lost its elasticity and strength. Yes...products containing protein improves your hairs elasticity and strength properties. Course and kinky hair tends to be naturally dry and fragile. With the addition of relaxers and colour services, the hair becomes dryer and weaker. Using a protein based conditioner or rinse will greatly improve the health of your hair and it should be an active part of your haircare regimen.
There are several different kinds of protein that you can find in hair products, such as.....
1. Hydrolyzed Human Hair Keratin – This is the most potent of the proteins and matches the keratin in hair exactly. It keeps the hair pliable and strong.
2. Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein – The protein has been broken down so it can penetrate all layers of the hair better and as such is excellent for deep conditioning. It also keeps the hair pliable and strong.
3. Silk Protein – Silk is the strongest natural fibres and has very small molecules that can penetrate the hair shaft. It is excellent for deep conditioning as it’s known to soften the hair.
4. Animal Protein – This will generally just coat the hair shaft and repair damage on the outer layers.
5. Vegetable Protein – This absorbs more easily into the hair without leaving any build up on the hair shaft.
6. Wheat Protein – Used in many conditioning products, this is a moisturizing and strengthening protein which also improves the hair’s ability to maintain moisture levels.
7. Collagen Protein – This increases the elasticity of the hair.
Protein treatments range from relatively light to quite strong. The light proteins include protein shampoos and conditioners and protein reconstructors. They can safely be used weekly without adversely affecting the hair. A good light protein is Motions CPR Protein Reconstructor. Strong proteins on the other hand are neither shampoos nor conditioners. Their main purpose is to provide protein to the hair so they are referred to as protein treatments. Good examples are Aphogee 2 Step Protein Treatment and Nexxus Emergencee. These should only ever be used when extreme breakage is being experienced or where breakage is anticipated e.g. before a chemical service. Their recommended use is every 6-8 weeks and should always be followed up with a moisturizing conditioner.
You can not have one without the other! Your hair will always need a proper balance of moisture and protein as they both work together to produce a healthy head of hair!
Related Articles: "Best Moisturizing Products for Black Hair", "Best Protein Treatments for Black Hair", "How To Seal In Moisturizers"
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